1996 GL1500 Carburetor Repair

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Now that the carbs are removed from the bike, the next step is to separate them. There are 4 things holding them together, other than hoses. For the hoses, separate them when you are ready and keep track of where they go. If needed, use the pictures as a map when you reassemble.

The other four things are:
The top plate,
The throttle linkage bar
The accelerator pump,
And the coolant plate on the bottom.

Removing the top plate requires the removal of 4 screws, and then disconnecting the 2 choke connector rods.

First remove these 4 screws. The first time I did it, they were tight as hell. We needed to use an impact driver to break them free.

Before you remove the top plate, flip the carbs over and break free the 4 screws on the bottom side connecting the heater. I needed an impact driver on those 4 also. But be very careful not to bend the accelerator pump nozzles. They stick up slightly from the top plate.


Then disconnect the choke rod connectors. There is one on each side.
There are 2 plastic washers, one metal washer and a really tiny cotter pin. Note the order for reassembly, one plastic washer goes on the rod first, then the rod pushes through the hole, then a plastic washer, then a metal washer then the cotter pin.
Also note that the cotter pins are really tiny. You should plan to have several extras on hand before doing the job. Some of them won't survive and some of them will go flying through the air.


This is the top plate removed, the underside. the upper arrow points to the tube that connects the accelerator pump to the top plate. Reassembly tip: Note that the end that goes into the accelerator pump has an o-ring next to the end. The other end, there is an o-ring about a half inch from the end.


Another view of the top plate. The arrows point to the above mentioned tube now removed, and to the accelerator pump nozzles.

Remove the hoses:

This is the top of the carbs with the top plate removed.
Remove the hoses pointed to.

Remove the heater from the bottom:

There are 4 screws connecting it. Same as above, I needed an impact driver to remove them. So you want to be really careful not to damage anything on the top side.



With the heater removed, you can see the bowl drain hoses, one goes to each bowl. Remove these.


Note: the nipples that the hoses go onto are tapered and do not have a lip. The clamps barely hold these on. I knocked the hoses off twice when putting the carbs back into the bike. You have been warned.

Next flip the carbs so that you can remove the bar from the front:

Pull the cotter pins and remove the washers. Pull the bar, then remove the remaining washers.
Reassembly note: there are two plastic washers and one metal washer on each end. One of the plastic washers was split on each end. The order for reassembly, solid plastic washer first, then the bar, then the split plastic washer, then the metal washer, then the cotter pin.

Now remove the accelerator pump and connecting rod.

Left side arrows point to both ends of the connecting rod. Be careful when removing the rod, the spring is loaded and small parts will fly away. Note that at the top of the rod, there is a plastic cup that holds the spring back. The rod pushes up freely through the center. The compression of the spring is what actuates the pump.
While holding the spring back, remove the cotter pin, the washer and pull the rod from the hole. Remove the spring. Remove the other end of the rod.

The center arrow points to the accelerator pump. The right arrows point to the 2 screws that hold it on.


CONGRATULATIONS! Your carbs are separated.

Go to:  Carb job summary page.
Go to:  Carb removal from the bike.
This page: Carb separation.
Go to:  Carb overhaul.
Go to:  Misc pictures.
Return to: Jim's Goldwing page.

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